Up and down all day round

Early in the morning of May 15 I had a frugal breakfast consisting of café con leche (coffee and hot milk) with a tostado (half a mini-baguette, toasted) drenched in olive oil. It is actually quite a substantial meal with all that olive oil. Normally I don’t eat that much during a day walking but I always try to have some bread with oil and a coffee before I start as I know that this will keep me going for several hours.

Ardales
Ardales

Then I set off going east and soon went into a hilly area with steep slopes going up and down. The last slope heading down into the El Chorro gorge was actually very steep with loose rocks all over the path and even if I had a busy time going down I thought I was lucky not having to walk upwards instead. I had some rest and a spot of lunch in El Chorro by the railway station.

El Chorro
El Chorro

The landscape there is dominated by sharp limestone cliffs and there are an abundance of caves. It is a splendid place for climbing, horse riding, mountain biking, canoeing, windsurfing, and more.

El Chorro
El Chorro

El Chorro also is world famous for an old workers pathway hanging from the sheer cliffs high up over the Guadalhorce river. It has recently been reopened (Easter 2015) after being restored and now it is safe to walk after having been a death trap for many years with several deadly falls. The path is named the kings little pathway, El caminito del Rey. At the time I was there in May 2014 it was still under repair and I didn’t bother going there just to have a look as I knew that it was closed off.

El caminito del Rey
El caminito del Rey

Instead I continued my walk that had more steep climbs up and around Sierra del Huma with magnificent views over distant farmland. Then began a gentle decent into the Abdalajís valley. The signposting for the GR-7 was not very good but better for the GR-249 that followed the same stretch for a while. But I got a bit lost at the end and had to rely 100% on my GPS in order to get down to Abdajalís through the rugged landscape. I hardly could notice a path at all cruising, zigzagging my way down a slope full of boulders, bushes, and knotty trees but there was an occasional cairn that confirmed that I was on the right track.

A little later my feet was hitting tarmac and I soon went into the village of Valle de Abdalajís. I put down my backpack at Hostal Vista de la Sierra that also had a bar and a restaurant, went shopping at the local Repsol petrol station and then had time off until the next morning.

Valle de Abdajalìs
Valle de Abdajalìs

Surprise, surprise

I had an early start as usual, checking my equipment several times, leaving the keys in the door to my room, moving down the stairs from the second floor, and shutting the front door locked behind me. If something was left behind it would imply waiting for a couple of hours until the guest house owners woke up. The weather was perfect for walking, overcast and around twenty degrees centigrade. Moving through a hilly agricultural area with billowing fields of corn and scattered farm houses.

Antequera
Antequera

Reaching Antequera early in the afternoon and after spending an hour in the historic town with a skyline dominated by the towers of a Moorish fortress and a multitude of church spires I decided to continue walking for couple of hours. My guide-book has one weakness in that it is not very good at describing the way out of populated areas, so I followed my GPS instead. Sometimes a track can take you in the opposite direction from where you’re going for hours but after a while I got suspicious and examined the GPS more thoroughly. The GR-7 on its way through Andalucía splits up in a northern path and in a southern path and that occurs 15 kilometers east of Antequera. I intended to follow the southern leg but I had the GPS tracks for both routes in my device. When leaving Antequera I just chose to follow the track that was next in sequence and assumed that it was the track leading to the fork where the GR-7 split up.

Slowed down
Slowed down

But there and then I realized that the last common track that led to the fork was missing in the GPS. I had downloaded all files but the person who published the tracks had forgotten to include exactly that vital track. The track I was following was actually an extra track, which was a shortcut to the northern path heading directly out of Antequera, that someone had thought would be of great interest to all hikers 🙂 Well, well, well, I accepted my mistake and turned around 180 degrees and moved back to Antequera in the afternoon sunshine in order to find a place to spend the night and to get something substantial to eat after a long day.

Encounter with a huge white Labrador

It was a nice cool morning but the walk was quite boring with a lot of tarmac to begin with but after a while the track continued on a narrow dirt road that suddenly after a bend passed straight through a farm between buildings to the left and to the right. Suddenly a huge white Labrador came running straight at me without making a sound. I also saw a woman and a child standing to the right outside the main farmhouse looking in my direction. The dog snapped repeatedly at me from behind, taking hold of my trousers with its teeth shaking its head vigorously. I didn’t know what to do so I just continued walking dragging the dog behind me while urging the woman to call off the dog. She made a couple of lame tries to do so but Pietro, as she called dog, continued to defend the household against the intruder. I am convinced that Pietro applied the same methods on me snapping at my heels as he knew would work getting the cows to where he wanted them 🙂 After a couple of very long minutes Pietro decided that he had won and let me off the hook in order to return to his normal business.

Villanueva de Cauche
Villanueva de Cauche

The terrain became rather difficult from there on with a lot of obstacles to pass like barbed wire fences and ravines and I began to suspect that I had chosen the wrong path when passing a fork a while before being abused by the dog but I had no intention to go back and take a chance with Pietro once more so I strode on using my GPS and my compass to navigate safely forward through rocks, boulders, and fissures and soon I found myself facing a motorway from way up a hill and down there in the valley was Villanueva de Cauche, my halfway target for the day.

GR-7 fork
GR-7 fork

As in all villages in Spain no matter how small they are there always is at least one restaurant and this was no exception. I had a ham and cheese sandwich and a beer and had a rest for a while listening to the locals talking. In Villanueva de Cauche the GR-7 through Andalucía splits in two, of which one goes north of and the other one south of the Sierra Nevada. I continued following the track to the south mostly on tarmac but with magnificent views over the nearby mountains. My guide-book told me that there was no accommodation to be found in Riogordo but i went by a Casa rural a bit up the mountain and asked the people in there watching television all family together if they would have me but the answer were that they were closed for business and when I asked if there was any place to stay in Riogordo I got a no as an answer from one of the older women. But when leaving one if the younger women stopped me and told me that there certainly w-a-s a bar beside the public swimming pool in Riogordo that had rooms to let. I thanked her and went on my way downhill for several kilometers.

Riogordo
Riogordo

The place she had told me about had rooms to let but the problem was that this was on the one day of the week that the bar staff had their day off so the bar was closed. But there was a note beside the door with a phone number and ten minutes after having called I was installed in a brand new hotel room with all conveniences.

Mountains are rising

This was to become another beautiful day with many astounding views from high up the mountain side. I saw a huge water reservoir with emerald-green water in the south and spectacular cliff formations in the north as I moved on towards an area between Málaga and Almuñecar called La Axarquía.

Presa
Presa
Rock formations
Rock formations

La Axarquía contains three astoundingly beautiful mountain ranges: Tejeda, Almijara and Alhama and the whole area is a nature reserve. There are peaks as high as 2000 meters, La Maroma, and several peaks just below 2000 meters, Navachica and Cielo for instance. In the winter there is a lot of snow in these mountains that stays for quite a period of time.

Maroma
Maroma

Before reaching Maroma I walked into Ventas de Zafarraya where I left the Málaga province and walked into the Granada province following an old railroad through a tunnel.

Railwaytunnel
Railway tunnel

I found a guest house just inside the village limits and later on had a great dinner in the company of villagers having drinks in the bar.

A stroll in a vegetable garden

The Zafarraya plain is situated in the Granada province just north of the border to Málaga. It is a large flat surface enclosed by mountains. The climate is a bit cooler than just a few miles in any direction from there and that is an excellent prerequisite for large-scale vegetable growing. The plain is one big garden dotted with farms and warehouses.

Zafarraya plain
Zafarraya plain

Coming up over the edge of the bowl surrounding the plain the views begins to be breathtaking. The dramatic mountain and valley formations of the Alpujarras in the south are coming into sight in the distance as does the mighty massifs of the Sierra Nevada in the north with several peaks reaching over 3000 meters, the highest,  Mulhacén, is 3480 meters above sea level. In late May there still was a lot of snow left at those altitudes.

Alhama de Granada
Alhama de Granada

I walked into Arenas del Rey late in the afternoon after more than eleven hours on foot and realized that there was no accommodation to be found. There was a camping site some ten kilometers away but that was no option so instead I inquired at a supermarket and was told that there was a hotel in the next village,Jayena, and that there also was a taxi service available in Arenas del Rey.

Arenas del Rey
Arenas del Rey

The shopkeeper gave me the number to the taxi service, I called, and soon I was on my way to Jayena where a bed, a shower, and dinner were waiting for me.

Magnificent views of the Sierra Nevada

The day started out with a bit of a drizzle but as always the temperature was ideal for walking. As I was moving silently through pine forest country I had many panoramic views of the Sierra Nevada coming into sight every now and then.

Sierra Nevada
Sierra Nevada

Moving down to Albuñuelas through a beautiful ravine speckled with orange groves.

Orange grove
Orange grove

The guide-book suggested La Casa Azul, a B&B in the center of the village, but there was no answer when I knocked at the door so I went on and followed a sign to El Cortijo del Pino that is a small casa rural. The owners, an English couple in their seventies, had just arrived from having been to England for a while. I was given a charming room with a beautiful view overlooking the village.

Albuñuelas
Albuñuelas

The only thing remaining that day, after having had a shower and having made preparations for the next day, was to wait – wait until eight thirty before I could get a hot meal. I am not much for eating during the day while walking so you can probably imagine that I am starved at the end of the day and that the late dinner customs that the Spaniards have sometimes make me frustrated.

High as a kite…

This was another brilliant day, hot but not humid, and like the days before it offered many panoramic views – views overlooking the Sierra Nevada in the north but also fabulous views overlooking the Mediterranean Sea in the south. It is said that when the air is really clear you can see Africa from the edge of the mountain.

Sierra Nevada
Sierra Nevada

But that day also contained exciting passages up and down the edges of a wide valley and I ended up for the night in the village of Lanjarón.

Lanjaron
Lanjaron

Lanjarón is situated in the western extreme of an area called the Alpujarras. This area is famous for its beautiful and dramatic nature with high mountains, mighty pine forests, and deep valleys, speckled with white villages.

Lanjaron
Lanjaron

Lanjarón is a bit different from a normal Andalusian village in that it has a relatively open village plan with wider streets in average than other villages I have visited. Another impressive thing is that Lanjarón must have at least ten hotels and with a population of 4000 that tells me that it must attract many tourists. One explanation is probably that it is a spa town and another that its surroundings offer excellent hiking, mountain biking, and climbing. Lanjarón is also famous for its bottled spring water that can be bought all over Spain.

A tough day

This was to become a tough day that went a bit wrong almost from the beginning. I lost the track and when I realized that I had to retrace for quite a bit, losing time and energy in the steep slopes. The terrain was really very difficult and almost involved climbing at times but as always in the Alpujarras the astounding views were there all day long and rapidly made me forget my difficulties and put a big smile on my face.

Alpujarras
Alpujarras

When I stepped over the village limit and into Pitres it was after six in the evening. At the village square I was met by a strange sight: a horse and a big dog chasing one another, running back and forth all over the place. I asked a couple of ladies that I went past where to find Hotel San Roque and immediately I was offered to stay at their house! You never know what could happen if you let yourself be seduced by sweet talk from pretty women so I lied and told them that I already had made a reservation with the hotel 🙂

Pitres
Pitres

Even if it had been a long day I wouldn’t set aside my daily run of things, so when I had got access to my room at the hotel I went out again to make some shopping for the next day. Even in a small place likePitres there is a Covíran supermarket and even if it doesn’t look much from the outside it really has an excellent selection. It even has a manual meat counter. After coming back to the hotel I had a shower and made my laundry as I did every second or third day.

Entrecote
Entrecote

Then it was well past supper time and I had a large entrecote and a large salad accompanied with a glass of Rioja and later on followed by a bowl of vanilla ice cream and a glass of sweet Málaga wine. I certainly don’t back down when serious and hard work is required of me, but on the other hand, whenever there is an opportunity I try to make myself as comfortable as my circumstances will allow.

¡Arriba, arriba!

All the villages in the Alpujarras are located in the valley and that makes two things certain: one is that every day walking starts with a steep climb and the second is that every day also ends with a steep descent, and in between, all day, the path moves continuously up and down. Walking there for ten hours a day is really hard work but it is worth every drop of sweat as the scenery is absolutely fabulous in whatever direction you look.

Alpujarras
Alpujarras

Below is the astoundingly beautiful valley and to the north the mighty Sierra Nevada where the glaciers is coming closer and closer for every step.

Trevélez
Trevélez

At noon I walked into Trevélez that was a busy little place with quite a lot of tourists moving around. A popular item to bring home from Spain is a leg of cured ham, jamón curado, and in many places in the country they argue that the original and best ham comes from their village, and Trevélez is no exception, big signs explain that it this is the home of ham 🙂

GR-7 signpost
GR-7 signpost

Later on in the afternoon I got a bit lost when the GPS track disappeared into nothing and the guide-book led me into a very dangerous, eroded area with steep slopes covered in loose, sliding dirt. I managed to find a relatively safe path but I had to crawl to keep myself from sliding back down.

GR-7 path
GR-7 path

Just half an hour before sunset I reached Cádiar and the Cádi bar which was full of happy people. The cup finals featuring Real Madrid and Átletico Madrid was on. The bar had rooms to let and a pizza oven so I ordered pizza that showed itself to be big enough for a small family. I couldn’t eat all that but the waiter swiftly put the leftovers in a pizza carton and gave it to me for future needs.

An interesting day

In these parts the track was not well signposted and it became really hard to follow as did the instructions from the guide-book. The only thing left was to rely completely on the GPS but I must say that I sometimes thought that the issuer of the track data never actually had walked there himself, or if he had, it must have been many years ago. I had a very hard time making my way in rough terrain, passing creeks and barbed wire fences, and an odd gate that closed off an entire dirt road.

I think that I approached Laroles on an unnecessary difficult path, but that’s life on the road, sometimes things don’t work out as planned and you have to find alternatives that work equally well. But it was a bit worrying that for two days in a row now I had nearly run out of daylight.

GR-7 Granada
GR-7 Granada

In the end I made it to upper Laroles and there was a camp site that also had cabins to let. After having made myself comfortable in a spacious fully equipped cabin I had dinner at the camp-site restaurant. There was a panorama window twenty meters wide facing a valley where the rocks and the farmland were glowing red in the light from the setting sun. Awesome as the Americans say.

GR-7 Granada
GR-7 Granada

The television showed some kind of opera festival. I had a very tasty evening meal and felt really good after a hard day’s work.

Inside the head of a hispanophile