Tag Archives: Baza

Finally: The big leap

Leaving Sierra Nevada behind made me a little sad. We had had company for a long time and it was constantly visible to me. Early in the morning I found myself on a huge, red, dusty plain where several square kilometers were covered by huge solar panels that made spooky sounds as they moved with the sun.

Sierra Nevada
Sierra Nevada

Today´s stage was to be over 50 kilometers and went mainly through a natural park. It is not as great as it sounds as the major part of the day was spent on dirt roads lined with densely growing pine trees. So it really was a struggle with few rewards in terms of nice views and other interesting things to see, and there wasn’t a single village in my way.

Sierra Nevada
Sierra Nevada

After some 50 kilometers I reached the recreational facility of Narváez. In the high-season accommodation and food is available there but not when I passed by, but there were some people. They had held a course that day and were preparing to leave. They asked if I wanted a ride to Baza and I happily accepted. We were five grown men that packed ourselves into a very small car and I besides that carried a 20 kilo backpack, but we managed to find the space and had a pleasant chat on our way to the city.

Crowded
Crowded

The guys dropped me off near Baza center and wouldn’t hear of charging me for the ride. I made my way to a hotel by asking the locals and called it a day. The big leap that had worried me for some time was over and done with and I had proven to myself that walking 50 kilometers in one day carrying a (to me) heavy backpack was quite feasible after all.

The valley of death

The 28 of May turned out to be another long day covering three of the stages from the guide-book. The signposting was very fragmented and it really was a must to have a GPS-device in order not to get completely lost.

Valley of death
Valley of death

Between Benamaurel and Cúllar you walk for a long distance through a very strange landscape. The dirt road winds through a valley lined by high sand dunes starred with patches of grass and in between there are corn fields. At first sight it is a wow feeling because that kind of landscape leads the thoughts to the coasts of Ireland or Scotland but after having walked in that landscape for mile after mile constantly with the same picture in front of your eyes you begin to feel a little insane and start talking to yourself.

Cúllar
Cúllar

But at last I got out of there and at the outskirts of Cúllar I found Hostal Monte Carlo. As many times before I was immediately handed my room key without any formalities. Passport registration could always wait until the guest had a chance to freshen up and wind down for a bit.

The innkeepers daughter
The innkeepers daughter

Later that evening I had one of the best meals I’ve ever had in Spain so far: charcoal grilled shoulder of mutton with a superb ratatouille. The service was fast and accurate despite the fact that the restaurant was packed with people. It seems to me that some people have a natural talent for doing the job they do. In this place one woman took care of the orders from all the guests in the restaurant and at the same time managed the busy take-away pizza service.