Tag Archives: Ardales

Increasing the pace

I made an early start from Ronda and everybody else, both guests and staff, were still asleep. I was instructed the day before to drop my room key in a letterbox by the reception and that I did. Seconds later I realized that I had locked myself in behind a wrought-iron gate that sat between me and the door to the street. The key for the gate was now without reach for me in a locked letterbox. There was a bell though and I rang it a couple of times and could hear it make a muffled sound somewhere deep inside the hotel. After my third attempt a not too happy person, still half asleep, turned up and he opened the gate for me.

Ronda
Ronda

I started the day by walking the remaining eight kilometers of stage 6 of the GR-7 that ends in Arriate. There I took the decision to try to make it to Ardales that day a further 32 kilometers ahead, making it a more than 40 kilometer day stage. It was my seventh day on the road and I felt that it was possible to extend the day stages. The wind was still very strong and steady and as usual it insisted on pushing me back instead of helping me to move forward. I walked mostly on roads all day and unfortunately they were quite busy at times and it is not pleasant being shaken again and again by the turbulent air that is brought upon you by trucks and cars, and the sound from the vehicles gets to you and make you tired and irritated.

Arriate-Ardales
Arriate-Ardales

But, eleven hours after leaving Ronda I reached Ardales and Hotel Restaurante el Cruce that is situated by a bridge over Río Turón. The hotel had everything I needed and after having made the usual preparations I had a shower and a delicious evening meal before calling it a day and taking a well earned rest.

Serrato
Serrato

Up and down all day round

Early in the morning of May 15 I had a frugal breakfast consisting of café con leche (coffee and hot milk) with a tostado (half a mini-baguette, toasted) drenched in olive oil. It is actually quite a substantial meal with all that olive oil. Normally I don’t eat that much during a day walking but I always try to have some bread with oil and a coffee before I start as I know that this will keep me going for several hours.

Ardales
Ardales

Then I set off going east and soon went into a hilly area with steep slopes going up and down. The last slope heading down into the El Chorro gorge was actually very steep with loose rocks all over the path and even if I had a busy time going down I thought I was lucky not having to walk upwards instead. I had some rest and a spot of lunch in El Chorro by the railway station.

El Chorro
El Chorro

The landscape there is dominated by sharp limestone cliffs and there are an abundance of caves. It is a splendid place for climbing, horse riding, mountain biking, canoeing, windsurfing, and more.

El Chorro
El Chorro

El Chorro also is world famous for an old workers pathway hanging from the sheer cliffs high up over the Guadalhorce river. It has recently been reopened (Easter 2015) after being restored and now it is safe to walk after having been a death trap for many years with several deadly falls. The path is named the kings little pathway, El caminito del Rey. At the time I was there in May 2014 it was still under repair and I didn’t bother going there just to have a look as I knew that it was closed off.

El caminito del Rey
El caminito del Rey

Instead I continued my walk that had more steep climbs up and around Sierra del Huma with magnificent views over distant farmland. Then began a gentle decent into the Abdalajís valley. The signposting for the GR-7 was not very good but better for the GR-249 that followed the same stretch for a while. But I got a bit lost at the end and had to rely 100% on my GPS in order to get down to Abdajalís through the rugged landscape. I hardly could notice a path at all cruising, zigzagging my way down a slope full of boulders, bushes, and knotty trees but there was an occasional cairn that confirmed that I was on the right track.

A little later my feet was hitting tarmac and I soon went into the village of Valle de Abdalajís. I put down my backpack at Hostal Vista de la Sierra that also had a bar and a restaurant, went shopping at the local Repsol petrol station and then had time off until the next morning.

Valle de Abdajalìs
Valle de Abdajalìs